Why the new Pope's robe comes in three sizes

With a new Pope , will come a new set of accessories for the newly appointed pontiff. These include the Fisherman's Ring, a papal staff (ferula), and the Sedia gestatoria (a portable throne). Other items like the white cassock or sutan, and the Cathedral Petri (the chair of Peter) are also part of the papal regalia. However, what draws the most attention from the Pope’s wardrobe is his garment – his robe – which is a testament to continued history and loaded with several symbolisms.


What is a Pope’s robe?

The Pope's primary robe is called a cassock, which is a long, floor-length garment. The Pope's cassock is always white, while other clergy generally wear black cassocks. For liturgical functions, the Pope may wear a chasuble (worn during Mass) or a cope (for processions and other ceremonial occasions), depending on the occasion.


A Pope's robes, or papal vestments, are made keeping in mind symbolism, practicality, and personal preference. The primary colors, white and red, carry significant meaning related to purity, charity, compassion, and sacrifice. While some popes have favored ornate and heavier fabrics, others have preferred simpler, less costly materials, reflecting their personal style and priorities. The overall goal is to present the Pope as the Vicar of Christ, while also allowing for individual expression and the practical needs of the role.


Here's a more detailed look at Pope’s robe:

Symbolism: White and red are the traditional papal colors, with white representing purity and charity, and red symbolizing compassion and sacrifice.

Practicality: The robes are designed to be comfortable and functional for the Pope's various duties, including public appearances and liturgical celebrations.

Personal preference: While tradition plays a role, each Pope often chooses the specific materials and styles of their robes to reflect their own personality and approach to leadership.

Materials: Historically, papal robes have been made of fine materials like silk and brocade, but more recent popes have favored simpler, more practical fabrics.

Key garments: The primary garments include the cassock (a long robe), mozzetta (a short cape), and stole (a scarf-like garment). The Pope also wears a white skullcap (zucchetto) and a mitre (a ceremonial hat).

Evolution: The style of papal robes has evolved over time, with some popes choosing to emphasize traditional elements, while others have opted for a more minimalist look. However, unknown to many, the Pope’s robe always comes in three sizes.


Why are there three robes of different sizes?

For over two centuries, the Gammarelli family has been the distinguished tailor to the clergy, providing meticulously crafted garments for men of the Church. Nestled in a quaint, unassuming corner of central Rome, their bespoke tailoring shop boasts a rich history of hand-stitching robes for the last eight popes, including the late Holy Father, Pope Francis .


The tailors at Gammarelli craft white vestments, comprising a cassock, sash, and skullcap, in three sizes—small, medium, and large—to “roughly fit” each of the cardinals, from the most diminutive to the tallest.

However, there have been challenges in achieving a perfect fit.

For instance, Pope John XXIII, characterized by his larger stature, had to have his robes split up the back during his first appearance due to a mix-up with the smaller-size garments. In contrast, the athletic Pope John Paul II found it difficult to fit into the larger sizes due to his broad shoulders.


The historical lineage:

Head tailor Massimiliano Gammarelli, who has dedicated 40 years to this artisanal craft, explained to ABC News that the shop maintains an elevated standard of excellence, regardless of personal sentiments about the pope himself. "We always work to a bit higher standard and quality for them," he affirmed, illustrating the deep commitment to their work.

The Gammarelli tailoring tradition, now in its sixth generation, began in 1798 among intense competition to outfit the Vatican clergy. Over the years, Gammarelli has earned its position as the preferred tailor for the Holy See, catering to thousands of priests and hundreds of cardinals and bishops. The honor of crafting the pope’s official robes stands as the pinnacle of their craftsmanship, with every member of the team eager to contribute to this sacred task. “When we need to work for the Holy Father, everybody wants to work on his cassock, so everybody works on it — we don’t put anybody to the side,” Mr. Gammarelli stated, reflecting the collaborative spirit of the workshop.

Pope Francis's wardrobe presented a more modest aesthetic compared to that of his predecessor, Pope Benedict XVI, who famously brought back the iconic red papal slippers. While the two popes shared similarities in their cassocks, Mr. Gammarelli noted minor adjustments; Francis opted for alterations to the cuffs while maintaining the traditional fabric, color, and silhouette. Distinctively, he favored uncomplicated black shoes and made a notable departure from papal custom by selecting a recycled gold-plated silver Fisherman's Ring, as opposed to Benedict's solid gold version.



Preparation for the new Pope:

The Gammarelli team faces a pressing challenge, as time is of the essence in crafting these one-size-fits-most garments. “As soon as the Holy See informs us that we must prepare the robes, we start immediately,” Mr. Gammarelli explained to ABC News, outlining the intricate production process. Each garment requires a collaborative effort where one person makes the buttonholes, another takes measurements, someone else cuts the fabric, and a different team member sews the individual pieces together. The complete set typically takes around 15 days to create.

Though this may seem like a swift turnaround for some of the world’s most recognized liturgical attire, it is an incredibly tight deadline. The papal conclave—a time-honored ritual for selecting a new pope—which is already underway now (started from May 7), can sometimes conclude in less than 24 hours. The newly elected pope is customarily introduced on the balcony that overlooks St. Peter’s Square within an hour of selection, leaving little time for adjustments like hemming or loosening belts to ensure the perfect fit.


Despite their extensive experience collaborating with the church, Mr. Gammarelli acknowledged the unpredictable nature of their prestigious role. "More or less, they manage to fit in it," he remarked. Yet, there remains no assurance that the next pontiff will choose Gammarelli to outfit his entire wardrobe, leaving the cherished legacy of this tailoring house in a state of hopeful uncertainty.